Gaeta

A clifftop town where the Tyrrhenian Sea does the talking

Tucked into the curve of its own gulf, Gaeta sits between Rome and Naples on the Lazio coast. This isn’t the polished Amalfi. It’s grittier, saltier, more lived-in. And that’s exactly why you’ll love it.

The old town sits along Monte Orlando, a headland that juts proudly into the Tyrrhenian Sea. Medieval towers watch over narrow alleys, the smell of slow-cooked ragù drifting from open windows. The Santuario della Santissima Annunziata gleams with golden baroque excess, while the stone-clad castle, Castello Angioino-Aragonese, has guarded the harbour since the 6th century.

You’ll spend at least some of your time on the beaches. Serapo is the main stretch, but walk further and you’ll find Fontania and Ariana – smaller coves with clearer water. The Montagna Spaccata (Split Mountain) is a dramatic clifftop sanctuary where a rocky chasm plunges to the sea below.

Then there’s the food. Gaeta olives are famous across Italy. Dark purple and packed with flavour. Try the Tiella, a local stuffed pie filled with octopus, escarole or salt cod. Wash it down with local white wine.

This is coastal Italy as the locals see it. Real fishing boats in the harbour, real prices in the restaurants, real Italian families on the beach. Close enough to Rome for a day trip, good enough to stay longer.