Gulf of Poets

Shelley, Byron, and a coastline to inspire

The Gulf of Poets curves between La Spezia and Porto Venere, its waters reflecting the Apuan Alps behind. This isn’t just a pretty name – artists and writers really did flock here in the 19th century, drawn by the light, the isolation, and the dramatic coastline.

You’ve heard their names. Byron swam here. D.H. Lawrence wrote here. Shelley, caught out at sea in a rare midsummer storm, drowned here.

Today it’s a protected natural area. Pine forests sweep down to hidden coves. Walking trails trace the cliffs, offering views that shift with every turn. Islands rise from the water – Palmaria, Tino, Tinetto – each with its own character and history.

The gulf’s eastern shore, around Lerici and San Terenzo, is gentler. Sandy beaches. Belle Époque villas. Shelley’s house still stands here, where he lived before his fatal sailing trip.

The western shore – Porto Venere and beyond – is wilder. Rocky outcrops. Sea caves. Waters that turn from turquoise to deep blue within metres.

You can explore by boat, catching ferries between villages. Or walk the coastal paths, where the scent of Mediterranean scrub mixes with salt air. The swimming is excellent too – clear water, protected coves and gentle waves.

This gulf earned its name. There’s something about the quality of light here, the way the mountains meet the sea, that still pulls at creative souls. So be sure to bring your camera and your notebook, or whatever your hand reaches for in moments of inspiration.