Lucca

A walled city where people still cycle on the ramparts

Lucca wraps itself in Renaissance walls that never saw battle. Four kilometres of ramparts, now tree-lined promenades. Enjoy them as the locals. Cycle or laze around in the afternoon sun above the terracotta roofs.

The historic centre unfolds in a maze of narrow streets and sun-dappled piazzas. Medieval towers rise unexpectedly. The Guinigi Tower sprouts oak trees from its summit. Climb it for views across honey-coloured stone and those encircling walls.

San Michele in Foro's façade catches afternoon light, its marble columns stacked impossibly high. Or how about the Duomo? Smaller than that of Milan or Florence. But quieter. Almost understated.

The Piazza dell’Anfiteatro curves in a perfect oval, built on Roman amphitheatre foundations. Cafés line the perimeter now. Stand here to feel the space humming with everyday Tuscan life. No pretence, no performance.

Are you an opera lover? Pop by the Puccini Museum. Yes, the famous composer. Breathe in the atmosphere of his upbringing and perhaps you’ll even be inspired.

The food here? Proper Lucchese tradition. Tordelli Lucchesi – hand-rolled pasta parcels stuffed with meat ragù – appear on every trattoria menu. Buccellato, the sweet anise bread, perfumes bakery doorways. Warm up with a seasonal soup, such as farro from nearby hills. Savour Matuffi, made of polenta. Or anything made of local chestnuts.