Piazza Navona

Baroque fountains, street artists, and the best gelato in Rome

Ancient Romans once filled 30,000 seats here to watch runners and wrestlers. This was back when Piazza Navona housed an athletics stadium. Now? You’ll still find plenty of spectators, still coming here for the atmosphere. This is one of Rome’s great gathering squares.

Bernini's Fountain of the Four Rivers commands the centre. Its marble gods represent the Nile, Ganges, Danube, and Rio de la Plata. Local legend says the Nile figure covers his face so he doesn’t have to see Borromini's church across the square. (Probably not true, but Romans love their artistic rivalries.)

The square pulses with life from morning to night. Street artists sketch portraits. Musicians provide a local soundtrack. Visitors pose with the statues. Christmas brings a sprawling market while summer evenings bring gelato and people-watching.

Come early morning if you want it quiet. Otherwise, embrace the throng. This square's been hosting the people of Rome for 2,000 years. It's not stopping anytime soon.