Sorrento

A clifftop town whose air is scented with lemons

Sorrento sits on tufa cliffs that drop straight into the Bay of Naples. Mount Vesuvius stands across the water. Capri floats on the horizon. The town perches between them, catching every bit of that famous southern light.

The ancient Greeks called this stretch "Surrentum" – possibly after the endless swirl and surge of waves against the rocks below. Local mythology filled these waters with sirens. Stand at the cliff edge and you’ll see why sailors might have imagined voices calling to them from that deep blue.

The historic centre unfolds in a grid of narrow lanes, their coolness a relief from the coastal sun. Slip into the Villa Comunale gardens. Palms, benches and that panorama stretching to Vesuvius await.

Below the clifftop town lies Marina Grande, reached by steep paths or – if you prefer – a lift that drops you through the rock face.

Down here it feels like a separate village entirely. Painted fishing boats, waterfront trattorias, nets drying in the sun. Order whatever came in that morning and eat with your feet almost in the water.

The food celebrates what grows nearby. Those famous Sorrento lemons appear everywhere. In limoncello, obviously. But also in risotto, in desserts, grilled with fish. Gnocchi alla Sorrentina bakes pasta dumplings in tomato sauce under a blanket of mozzarella.

Simple, filling, perfect after a day of walking these hills.

Sorrento works as a base for day trips – Pompeii's ruins, Capri's blue waters, the Amalfi Coast's dramatic drive. But don't just sleep here. The town has its own rhythm, its own charm, its own reasons to linger.