Tivoli

Hilltop gardens, Roman villas, and waterfalls

Just 30 kilometres (18 miles) east of Rome, Tivoli sits on the slopes of the Monti Tiburtini. Two UNESCO sites anchor this ancient town, and they couldn’t be more different.

The Villa d’Este is pure Renaissance theatre. Water cascades down hundreds of fountains, some delicate, others thunderous. The gardens were designed to impress, and 4 centuries on, they still do. Walk through the compact terraces where hydraulics create music, mist, and spectacle.

Villa Adriana sprawls below the modern town – a vast 2nd-century imperial retreat covering 120 hectares. Wander marble ruins, bathing complexes, libraries and temples. What remains is fragmentary, but the scale tells you everything about Roman ambition.

A maze of medeival streets lead to the Piazza del Duomo. San Lorenzo Cathedral dates from the 12th century. Narrow streets drop steeply, opening onto unexpected viewpoints across the Aniene valley. The town itself rewards exploration beyond its famous villas.

Tivoli’s restaurants serve all the Roman classics: cacio e pepe, abbacchio, carciofi alla giudia. The local white wine is Colli Albani DOC, crisp enough to cut through the summer heat. Take the opportunity to be surrounded by the living history of this place as you sip on a glass. Or two.