Vernazza

Vernazza possesses something its neighbours lack – a true natural harbour. The semicircular bay cradles fishing boats and lapping water. Colourful houses wrap around the inlet like an amphitheatre facing the sea.

This might be Cinque Terre’s most beautiful village. We certainly think so. But you can stand at the water’s edge and decide for yourself.

Two buildings guard Vernazza with their monumental grandeur. Harbourside, the 13th-century Church of Santa Margherita d’Antiochia. It sits, both sober with its weathered grey stone and soaring with its octagonal bell tower rising above terracotta rooftops. Ligurian Gothic meets salt air and centuries of history.

Then, up on the rocky promontory, the Castello Doria. Or at least the ruins of its medieval watchtower. It crowns the village. Once, you would have spotted raiders approaching by sea from here. But today? Enjoy the panoramic views. The village spreads out below. Boats bob in turquoise waters. Terraced vineyards climb the cliffs.

Walk down to the water along Via Roma. It winds its way through the village’s shuttered houses and hanging laundry. Cafés and boutiques spill onto the road. It opens into a piazza facing the harbour. The light at golden hour makes the buildings and water all around come alight.