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Sacre Coeur cathedral in montmartre, Paris

Sacré-Cœur

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White basilica crowning Montmartre's hill

Sitting atop Butte Montmartre, the highest point in Paris, is the Basilica of Sacré-Cœur. Almost 300 stairs rise up to it through Square Louis Michel park. Churches throughout history have often been made by rich and powerful kings in order to boast. The backstory of this place is a little different.

In 1871, France suffered a disaster when it lost the Franco-Prussian War. Hundreds of thousands of soldiers perished. Alsace-Lorraine, and the city of Strasbourg, passed into German hands. France had shrunk.

The Basilica is national penance made of stone. Two Catholic businessmen vowed to construct it as long as France was not completely destroyed. Construction was completed in 1914, after 50 painstaking years.

Built in the style of a Byzantine basilica, it calls to mind a more ancient, humble form of faith. But, of course, we’re still talking about France. Added to that are 5 voluptuous domes and a free-standing belltower with a 19-tonne bell.

Step inside to watch as stained-glass windows allow shafts of coloured light to play in the gloom. Midnight blue and goldleaf frescoes resonate. Bright red rubrics pop, and Jesus opens his arms wide. It’s like a medieval manuscript upon stone.

Scale the main dome and you’ll see panoramic views of all Paris. The 300 spiralling steps reward you handsomely. The Sacred Heart beats with the city at your feet.

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