Villefranche-sur-Mer

Colourful port on a deep harbour

Villefranche-sur-Mer is a classic Mediterranean beach town. You’ll find it on the outskirts of Nice, at the furthest eastward reaches of the French Riviera. It’s one of the gems of France’s fancy south coast, yet with an unpretentious attitude.

Wander down to the waterfront. The town arranges itself around you, ensconcing you in a summer sensation. Pastel houses (of course) – ochre, terracotta, washed pink – stack up the hillside behind a small working harbour where the catch still comes in most mornings. That bouillabaisse is all the better knowing the ingredients were unloaded, sold and bought here earlier today.

The Baroque church of Saint-Michel sits just off the quay. It’s cool inside, with a carved wooden Christ that dates to the 1700s. Away from the big French cities, Villefranche feels local and relaxed. The light in the bay is special at most hours, but particularly in the late afternoon when it settles across the water, dancing in the blue shallows, and turning the hillside colours deeper.